The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.

"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

To date, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Kenneth Hayden
Kenneth Hayden

Lena is a tech enthusiast and software developer with a passion for gaming and digital innovation.